Don’t you just love it when things fall in place like the last piece of a really hard puzzle, or like when the thin and long block in Tetris falls right between a perfect gap. Don’t you just love it when months of hard work and dedication finally pays of? Well today it did for Julia. Julia has during the last 5 months in Indonesia done the following:
- swallowed a tremendous amount of water (more than I thought was possible)
- Hit herself in the head with her own board (multiple times)
- Cut herself, (with her own fin while surfing)
- Got sand in her eyes, mouth, ears and other places
- Done a million pop-ups
- Gotten sunburnt
- Not caught an “open faced wave”
To have gone through all of this, without being able to catch an open faced wave really tears on ones patients. And it is here one might ask; is it worth it?
Well, today Julia found out. She caught her first open faced wave! As I’m writing this Julia is still smiling. It has been 3 days since the surf.
// A proud Axel